Heron Preston FW23 returns to New York

With cracked concrete floors, plaster white columns and exposed ceiling wiring, the venue created the perfect setting for Heron Preston’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show – offering a mix of industrial utilitarianism that reflects the brand’s style. But Preston’s latest represented more than just another presentation, it was the San Francisco native’s first fashion show during New York Fashion Week.

Since launching his eponymous label in 2017, Preston has walked numerous shows during Paris Fashion Week. So Preston’s NYFW debut coming after years of growing popularity is almost in reverse order, but the designer made sure it was memorable for many reasons. Almost like a homecoming, the FW23 show highlights the life and community Preston has built in New York for nearly two decades. But one thing that stood out about this show, in particular, was Preston’s decision to make sure everyone was a part of the experience.

“It’s like the city was calling me. I’ve lived here since I was 24 and there are only so many friends and family who have never been to one of my fashion shows,” Preston said. “That’s what has inspired me. The city. I see it more as an event to bring my friends and family together. I think it’s time to reconnect with the community.”

Opening the show was a group of men dressed in orange construction vests who spray painted a series of hiking trails in shades of cobalt blue, deep orange, red and white. As models maneuvered into various formations throughout the space, it was clear that Preston’s vision for both FW23 and the future is a circular utilitarian style. His signature streetwear style was still elevated through a variety of cuts, graphic details and easy layering. But what’s becoming increasingly experimental is Preston’s catalog of fabrics and textures.

Menswear highlights included a sharp green denim jacket, a relaxed deep charcoal leather bomber with safety patches, an oversized work jacket with distressed details, motocross shirts and a rugged black padded suit. Womenswear highlights came in a stunning silver chain dress, an eggshell silk dress, a deep blue promotional black leather cropped set and a black tweed top and mini skirt set.

Preston’s mix of street style, motocross and safety is enhanced with eye-catching textures such as fur black thigh-high boots, ankle-length fur coats and additional chain pieces. Previous collections have shown a deep love for the brand’s signature orange shade – usually bathing many pieces in the shade. This time around, Preston steered clear of the overuse of color and opted for subtle inserts, whether it’s a sneaker stripe detail or a subdued graphic next to the brand’s basic orange clothing label. For the busy creative, this collection served as an affirmation of his design philosophy and remaining committed to presenting it in its best form. A form that doesn’t repeat too many unnecessary elements, but thrives on consistency.

“I’ve really identified archetypes or styles that really make sense to me. With jackets, I’ve narrowed it down to a bomber, jacket and work jacket. Just like fleece, there’s the stretchy sweatshirt, the open-leg sweatshirt, and some fleece shorts. That’s the core and then you look at the short sleeve tops. Antenna. It doesn’t have to be a lot, but then you start building from there,” Preston said. “I have to have a very focused approach to what we do, so there’s no question. I feel like that kind of consistency is the kind of thing that keeps brands going.”

Check out Heron Preston’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.

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