2022 International Woolmark Award winner and fashion darling Saul Nash has movement running through his veins and for his Fall/Winter 2023 ‘Juxtaposition’ runway show, we saw the designer in top form.
Shown earlier today during London Fashion Week, Nash enlisted dancers who subscribe to his streetwear-based aesthetic to strike a delicate balance between being active and soft – a juxtaposition if you will. Fittingly, “Juxtaposition” is the name of the FW23 collection, which sees the designer juxtapose his functional, street-friendly hybrid designs with the harsh environment of the great outdoors.
The exhibition space was narrow and packed with fans, while on the floor, mounds of black sand replicated the mountains of Iceland. Cold air and smoke wafted into the room, with the models expressing it as they walked the runway warming up their chills. This was a juxtaposition in itself as they wore tracksuits that are sure to keep you warm over Merino wool compression knits.
Explaining the controversy in his show notes, Nash says: “Growing up in London, you wear a lot of ski outerwear, but you never learn to ski. It is a symbol of ambition juxtaposed with the reality of city life. For me, the collection is like a dreamscape, a place between where I come from and where I’m going.” With that in mind, and the fact that he’s now turning 30, Nash adds, “I don’t want to wear tracksuits for the rest of my life, but I’ll always want to be in activewear.”
Bonded technical outerwear — a ski jacket, of course — arrives in cool tones of ice blue, storm gray and Icelandic white. The cuts are slimmer than before and applied, with the occasion of the streetwear shades that many have put on the designer. Articulated seams add the ability for more movement, while deadstock nylon and recycled down only continue to evolve the designer’s aesthetic, this is a name that is constantly disrupting activewear standards.
The knit forms around the body and moves with it, while ribbed elbows and intricate paneling contribute to Nash’s understanding of how the human structure interacts with the world around it. On foot, UGG®’s Tasman LTA and Classic Mini padded boots—some of which are equipped with custom Vibram sole units—add to the multitude of terrains Nash dresses his audience for.
You can see Saul Nash FW23 in the gallery above, while more London Fashion Week FW23 content can be found on Hypebeast.
In case you missed it, check out LABRUM’s monumental FW23 runway show.