What to expect this AW23 season

London Fashion Week officially kicks off on Friday, February 17, for five days and will feature 104 physical activations and 41 digital exhibitions as the British Fashion Council (BFC) continues to embrace a digital physical hybrid format.

In a statement, the BFC said February’s edition would be dedicated to the late Vivienne Westwood, who died in December 2022, and her incredible legacy, saying her work “not only changed the fashion industry, giving birth to defining punk. but it also led to positive changes worldwide.”

In total, the Fall/Winter 2023 event will feature 47 runway shows, 18 presentations, 2 dates, 37 events and 41 digital activations, including showcases from Christopher Kane, Erdem, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Roksanda, Simone Rocha, Bora Aksu and Richard Quinn. There are also plenty of new names on this season’s schedule, including Noon By Noor, Sinead Gorey, Talia Byre, Tove and Perted’Ego.

Image: Burberry by Tyrone Lebon

Daniel Lee makes his debut as creative director of Burberry

One of the most anticipated shows of LFW AW23 has to be Daniel Lee’s debut as creative director of Burberry. Under Ricardo Tisci, Britain’s most famous fashion brand seemed to be losing its way, with Lee joining the brand in October, the legacy seems to be returning to the days of Cool Britannia.

Earlier this month Burberry unveiled the first “creative expression” of its new designer ahead of the AW23 show on Monday, February 20, including a more traditional Burberry knight logo and the return of the Prorsum flag.

The new logo was highlighted with a new teaser campaign, shot by Tyrone Lebon, starring Liberty Ross, Raheem Stirling, Vanessa Redgrave, Skepta and Lennon Gallagher, son of Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher and Patsy Kensit, one of the original Cool Britannia pairs. . The campaign also featured Burberry icons, from the brand’s trench coat to the instantly recognizable check, giving a hint that Lee’s debut will look to the archives with an emphasis on his heritage.

Image: Moncler Genius

Moncler Genius debuts at LFW

Moncler Genius is planning a “monumental” debut at London Fashion Week at Olympia London on February 20. Against Burberry, the Italian company is bringing friends including Alicia Keys, Pharrell Williams and Rick Owens to its public showcase.

The event will set the tone for what it calls “redefining the year of genius” and will unveil the creators, ideas and collections for 2023 under one roof with a “live show on a grand scale”. The ‘Art of Genius 2023’ lineup features Palm Angels, Frgmt, Mercedes-Benz, Adidas Originals, Salehe Bembury and Jay-Z’s Roc Nation.

The Moncler + Rick Owens collection will also be part of the event, with the brand adding that Owen will “challenge the possibilities of design beyond fashion.”

“Each co-creator brings their own unique brand of Genius to the potent mix, challenging the limits of what is possible while presenting immersive experiences and performances that represent their creative visions,” explains Moncler Genius in the press release. “It is a multi-form arena for creativity to be appreciated for all its beauty and emotional power.”

NewGen 30th Anniversary

2023 marks the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NewGen initiative, which supports and nurtures emerging British designers, and this season kicks off an annual celebration that will give the creative community an opportunity to come together “to celebrate and recognize the brilliant history of program and graduates”.

AW23 cohorts include Ahluwalia, Ancuta Sarca, Asai, Chet Lo, Conner Ives, Di Petsa, Eftychia, Feben, Harri, Helen Kirkum, Labrum London, Leo Carlton, Nensi Dojaka, Paolo Carzana, Robyn Lynch, Roker, SSDaley, Saul , Sinéad O’Dwyer and Yuhan Wang.


DiscoveryLAB, which aims to support “very emerging designers” continues to go digital this season, 12 designers will take part, including Alec Bizby, Denis Howlhita, Derrick, Laura Pitharas, Ruirui Deng, Siyun Huang, Sól Hansdóttir, YYAtomic , An Ocean of Ideas (AOI), Johannes Warnke, Roseocean, and Xu Zhang.

Ukrainian Fashion Week

As part of the ‘Supporting Ukrainian Fashion’ initiative, LFW is partnering with Ukrainian Fashion Week to present three Ukrainian designers – Frolov, Kseniaschnaider and Paskal at BFC NewGen on Tuesday 21 February.

Image: British Fashion Council

LFW – a city wide celebration

Alongside the catwalks and presentations, brands, restaurants and cultural institutions came together to create a city-wide celebration with more than 450 events in shopping destinations including Chelsea, Oxford Street, Covent Garden and Regent Street in the capital.

Events include designer Q&A sessions, zero-waste crafting and recycling workshops, live music performances and limited-edition product offerings. Participating brands include Anya Hindmarch, Browns, Fiorucci, MatchesFashion, Peter Jones, Selfridges and Jigsaw.

London Fashion Week runs from February 17th to 21st.

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